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You also want low voltage while cranking on the ground circuits. You’ll need to clean and/or replace cables or wires. If you do have more voltage, you have a bad ground. With the engine running you should have no more than 0.10V DC at those locations. I recommend testing the engine block, frame, cab, transmission case and ground cable. Install one end of meter on the ground post of the battery and the other lead on the component you’re testing. Doing a voltage drop test to test for bad ground is a must for this transmission. The main ground cables will need need to be replaced in many cases, but you can also do a voltage drop test on both cables in a diesel. Use an alignment tool that centers pump off the stator tube. Lube the gear and make sure the gear is in the correct direction. Do not replace the front bushing unless it really needs to be replaced. To sum up the pump rebuild, make sure you address the worn pressure regulator valve to fix the high-pressure issues. There are aftermarket alignment tools available to help align the pump up to true center line. The best way to align the pump is to align it off the stator support tube. It’s a common procedure to use a pump band around the outside of the pump to align it, that’s not the case on this transmission because the bushing may not be true centerline. If the chamfer isn’t down, the outer gear can gouge up the gear and pocket and weld itself together. This chamfer has to go down into the pump pocket first. The outer gear has a chamfer on the outside edge (figure 2). Make sure the hub contacts the gear on each side equally. When you’re installing the pump gears into the pump, first take the inner gear and check the fit onto the torque converter. With the slot alignment correct the bushing gets a full amount of lube. Make sure the lube slot notch is aligned correctly in the pump (figure 1). Always check the converter hub to bushing clearance, it should be 0.003″ – 0.0045″. You can also hone the bushing to make the clearance correct but that still does not make it on true center. One of the other reasons I say not to replace the bushing is that the new bushing is too tight. If you want to or must replace the bushing, then line bore it to true center after installing the bushing into the pump. After the factory bushing is removed and a new bushing is installed, it is not on true center, causing the bushing to ride off to one side. It has been proven the bushing alignment is off center in many pump castings and therefore they are finished in place. The front pump has the bushing installed then they finish the bushing in place for a true center line. This sounds cheap or some may say that it’s not proper to not replace the bushing during a rebuild. Here is how you prevent this, don’t replace the front pump bushing. This will cause heat and the bushing will weld itself to the converter hub. The new bushing on this transmission many times is too tight on the torque converter. Most of the time, the pump is rebuilt with a solution from the aftermarket for the worn pressure regulator valve. Usually when they come in for a rebuild they need the coast clutch drum replaced and the direct clutches are burnt. The 5R110 transmission normally is seen in shops with over one hundred thousand miles. Before a comeback happens to you, we’ll show you how to keep the 5R110 transmission front pump working flawlessly. There are two main areas to look at for the broken pumps the pump rebuild and the chassis grounds. The last thing you want is the customer second-guessing your workmanship. The rebuilt transmission did not even make it 100 miles and it’s back at the shop. This is one of the worst situations for you and the customer. You find out later after the disassembly that the pump gears are broken and welded to the metal plate in the pump. You verify the no forward or reverse gears. The customer says they were driving around and then suddenly there was a loss of power and then dead on the side of the road, no movement. A freshly rebuilt transmission comes back with a no movement.
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